塔吉克斯坦服饰在丝绸之路文明结构中的地位

The Costume of Tajik People in the Civilizational Structure of the Silk Road

The Great Silk Road gave a serious impulse to the costume art development of the peoples from Central Asia，the southern section of which began to function actively from 112 BC，when the Chinese Emperor Udi established diplomatic relations with Bactria.The suit of Tajiks was formed on the heritage of ancient civilizations，enriched by the achievements of cultures of different peoples as a result of cultural dialogue on the routes of the Great Silk Road.

This report focuses on reflecting intercultural contacts in the costume of the population of the southern region of Central Asia during the classical development of the Great Silk Road（1st-10th centuries）.The history of the costume shows that ethnic and cultural interactions clearly manifest in it.Throughout the history of the Tajik costume，it reflected the autochthonous layer and the influence of intercultural communications.In the Central Asian region，since ancient times，there have been intense contacts not only between the agricultural and nomadic world of the region，but also distant cultures that acted as factors in the development of the costume.Poly-ethnicity，intensive trade，cultural and information exchange repeatedly in history became a resource not only for socio-economic development and a guarantor of interreligious tolerance，but also contributed to the internationalization of the costume.The formation of the traditional costume was influenced by the intercivilizational dialogue that was observed at all stages of the history of the Central Asian peoples，which contributed to the active translation of the cultural achievements of the surrounding world.Moreover，it was not a direct assimilation of cultural trends from outside，but the selection of those cultural phenomena was close in spirit.People's clothing has always preserved elements common to all peoples living in Central Asia，bearing the features of ethnicity that have developed in the process of constant mutual enrichment.The stability and sustainability of the civilizations of Central Asia was facilitated by the fact that along with the steppe culture and values of the agricultural world，the cultures of the Confucian，Indo-Buddhist，Christian，and many regions of the Islamic world were assimilated，by nature always being international.The latter circumstance was an important element in the balance of cultures and contributed to the birth of a completely new form of costume，which accumulated in itself the urban culture of peoples.Internal values and traditions of folk clothes originated from the depths of centuries.In Central Asia，local relicts，art and craft practices of the nomadic and agricultural world，traditions of the previous period and cultures of peoples along the Great Silk Road were integrated into a single new formation.Here they received their final imaginative completion，the system in the traditional costume of the peoples inhabiting the region.Already the ancient societies of Central Asia and the first civilizations formed a multi-polar cultural world with its own stable traditions，sufficiently clear in the context of ethnic，political，commercial，cultural interaction within the coexisting centers of civilization.All these phenomena contributed to the formation of ethnic features of the national costume.Therefore，there is so much in common in the traditional costume of Tajiks and other peoples of Central Asia.Continuity and traditionalism is the basic genetic factor of the Tajik costume（Fig.1）.

Fig.1　Female Costume 1 st-2ndc.AD.Bactria

From the second half of the 1st millennium BC，inter-regional trade relations between East and West are being strengthened.Active civilizational ancestors of the Tajik people—the Bactrians and Sogdians played a role on the Great Silk Road.The costume complex is of great importance in the structure of the culture and interchange of the Great Silk Road，since the materials，ornaments，cosmetics，basic forms of clothing used were not only the subjects of trade，but also were the translators of the cultural achievements of peoples from East to West.The structure of the costume reflected that active dialogue of civilizations，which contributed to the formation of tolerance and openness to the external influence of cultures of peoples in the Eurasian space（Fig.2）.

Fig.2　The cotton pants.Kurgan.Tokharistan

Fig.3　The ladies and the children costumes.Kurgan.Tokharistan.End of 4th-5th c.AD

Dialogue of civilizations on the routes of the Great Silk Road was reflected in the costume of the population of Sogd and Bactria-Tokharistan.The interaction of cultures was reflected in the components of the costume，on the used fabrics，ornaments，clothing，etc.The inclusion of huge integrated spaces in the ancient and medieval empires of Eurasia，the spread of world religions along the Silk Road routes，contributed to the formation of the concept of“fashion”in a suit.On the roads of the Silk Road，similar fabrics，sewing techniques，changing clothing patterns are spreading，and the dominant religions bring their own influences，reflected primarily in the decor and proportions of clothing（Fig.3）.The traditional costume of the Tajiks，as it appeared in the early twentieth century，contains a lot of ancient strata.One of the most ancient features that have survived to this day is the form and constructive solution of the classical ethnographic costume complex—outer clothing（such as dressinggown，caftan），shirts of tunic cuts，loincloth with an inset for step and pointed headdress or a tightly fitting cap with rounded top，in many Eurasian peoples.In the 2nd millennium BC in Central Asia，it was already a fairly traditional costume ensemble.For the first time this costume complex in full complement appeared in the ensemble of clothes from Xinjiang more than four thousand years ago，although tunic-like tunics have been already found in the materials of the more ancient Xinjiang.Relics of archaic garments were preserved among archaeological finds from the Kurgan of the 1st-5thcenturies（Fig.4）.

Fig.4　The early medieval male costumes of Xinjiang

A distinctive feature of Cherchen's outer clothing is the presence of a structural seam along the middle of the mill，which is probably connected with the width of the machine on which fabrics of a certain size were produced.It was in the P millennium BC in archaeological materials that the ancient Iranian attire.kandiz（cloak with false sleeves）was fixed in the ensemble of clothes from Xinjiang.The fashion for these clothes was so strong that from the middle of the Century it spread along the early Eurasian routes in Attica，where it tranformed into a light cloak.Later，a similar type of clothing is traced in Scythians，Byzantium，and medieval Armenia.In the Central Asian costume ensemble，the cloak can be traced throughout the history of the costume:it was reflected in the early medieval painting of Tokharistan，Sogd.The cloak given in a medieval miniature art，in a traditional Tajik costume，was transformed into a veil.It is generally accepted that folk costume is a solid ethnic sign，especially for antiquity and the Middle Ages.While keeping ethnic features in a suit，the population along the highway of the Great Silk Road synchronously spread fashion for certain forms of clothing.With the preservation of ethnic characteristics，adapted to climatic conditions and spiritual needs of the population along the great highway，innovations were primarily reflected in the overall decorative solution of the costume，silhouette clothes，used artistic fabrics，and in ornaments.Dialogue of the arts on the routes of the Great Silk Road is reflected in the jewelry of Bactria-Tokharistan and Sogd，in which the syncretic traditions of peoples along the highway are clearly expressed（Fig.5）.

Fig.5　Frontal image of an armoredwarriors in a crown with the raised right hand.5th c.AD

Silk fabrics were used in the costume of the peoples of Central Asia back in the 2nd millennium BC，but it was the intensification of interaction along the Silk Road that promoted the wide spread of silk in the region.From China，raw silk and dyes came，but over time，in the south of the Central Asian region，their own silk-weaving traditions were being formed.And the traditions of silk-weaving developed synchronously throughout the region.Then in Central Asia，a number of local schools of artistic silk-weaving appeared.Silkweaving schools were established in Tokharistan，Sogd，Ferghana，Khorezm，in the Lower Syrdarya，Turfan，Kucha，Khotan，etc.which were closely connected（Fig.6）.

Silk weaving was promoted by the increase in the role of silk in interstate exchange and the increased popularity of art fabrics among the population.These art schools were closely associated with the traditions of China，Iran，Byzantium，India.This was evidenced by the inclusion of the motifs of Chinese，Sasanian，Indian，Byzantine textile art in the ornamental traditions of Toharistan and Sogd，not to mention the proximity of technological methods of weaving（Fig.7）.

In the ornamentation of popular silks，ancient Iranian motifs of winged horses，mountain rams，geometric figures，plant motifs and images of the“tree of life”were used.The highest achievement of the weaving art—the production of polychrome silks，was closely related to the art of China，Iran and the peoples of Central Asia.Findings from Astana and Mount Mug（Sogd），collections of Sogdian fabrics in museums testify to the commonality of the traditions of artistic，which is testified by the mass finds of cotton clothes in the burial of the ordinary population of the Old Termez，mentioned above in Kurgan（Fig.8）.(www.xing528.com)

Fig.6　The male costumes.Dilberjin.Tokharistan.5th c.AD

Fig.7　The female and male costumes.Balalyktepa.Tokharistan.6th c.AD

Fig.8　The male costumes.Penjikend.Sogd.7th c.AD

The Great Silk Road was a system of mutual exchange in the field of fashion art.The imported exotic fabrics，clothes，ornaments gave impetus to their borrowing and creative approach to their production in a new place，they served as a stimulus for new innovations and promoted the understanding of other cultures.In the early middle ages on the slopes of the Great Silk Road，the fashion for trapezoid or hourglass shapes was widely spread，the silhouette of clothing used for silk and cotton textiles of dense texture with a large stainforming silhouette.It was the development of communications that facilitated a broad exchange of artistic culture on the East-West routes，which in turn led to the spread of fashion.It was in the middle ages with the flourishing of the Great Silk Road in Central Asia that the formation and development of fashion in the current understanding took place.Fashion is vividly manifested in the elite layers of society，often eroding ethnic specifics in a suit（Fig.9、Fig.10）.

The oldest forms of clothing，the principles of their decoration，which were influenced by innovations on the Great Silk Road，so far have been preserved in the traditional costume of the Tajiks.

Fig.9　The textile pattern:the peacocks.Afrosiab.Sogd.7th c.AD

Fig.10　Male and female costumes.Afrosiab.Sogd.7th c.AD

In the traditional costume complex of the Tajiks，to this day，tunic-like shirts，loincloth with a step-inset，the manner of wearing several dresses，the use of large stain-forming ornamental motifs（chikan-embroidery）with dressing of women's clothing，etc.remaining Syncretic local traditions of the historical costume of the ancestors of Tajiks-Bactrians and Sogdians，become an integral part of the ethno-cultural structure of civilizations of Central Asia（Fig.11～Fig.14）.

Fig.11　The traditional costumes

Fig.12　The traditional costumes of young women

Fig.13　The traditional costumes

Fig.14　The traditional costumes of the bride and the groom.Ishkashim.Pamir.