男装设计分类：了解不同服装风格

9.3.1　Jackets and tops　上衣

Suit jacket套装西服

A suit jacket can be single-breasted or double-breasted; the single-breasted panels always have front cuts. Generally, there are 3-4 pockets on the front panel: one chestwelt pocket and 2-3 fap pockets beneath. The chest welt pocket is used to insert a bright-colored handkerchief. There are one or two vents on the back. Suit jackets are always made of fne fabrics, e.g., worsted wool（Figure 9-6）.

套装西服可以是单排扣或双排扣，单排扣的前襟为圆底摆。前身上一般有3—4个口袋：一个胸袋，下面2—3个带盖口袋，胸袋用来装色彩鲜艳的胸巾。后身有一或两个开衩。套装西服通常使用精制的面料制作，如精纺羊毛（图9-6）。

Figure 9-6　Suit jacket
图9-6　套装西服

The lapel can be notched or peaked. There is a mock buttonhole on the left lapel, which was once useful but nowadays is hardly used. In the 19 th century when a gentleman wanted to please his lover, he often wore a fower in chest, so the buttonhole was used to insert the fower.

翻领可以是平驳领或戗驳领。在左边的领面上有一个假扣眼，它曾经是有用的，但现在几乎不用了。在19世纪当一个绅士想要取悦他的爱人时，胸前往往揣一朵花，这个扣眼就是用来插花的。

Tuxedo shirt　塔士多衬衫

Tuxedo shirt is a formal type matched with men's formal dresses, e. g., the tailcoat or morning coat. It has a wing collar, and is decorated with ruffes, pleats or U-shaped stiff liner on the front panel.

塔士多衬衫是正装衬衫，和男士的正式礼服相搭配，如燕尾服或晨礼服。它有翼领，前身饰有花边、褶裥或U形硬衬。

Vest（BrE waistcoat）马甲

It is a sleeveless upper garment, usually worn over a shirt and under a formal dress.

马甲是无袖上衣，穿在衬衫的外面，西服的里面。

Blazer　布雷泽外套（休闲西装）

The blazer is similar to the suit jacket and also has lapels. It is single-breasted or double-breasted and often has patch pockets. The obvious characteristic is that it is usually made of navy blue fabrics and decorated with gold or silver buttons. The pants which are matched with a blazer can be changeable. The jacket of some association uniform or school uniform is often designed as a blazer style with a shield-shaped badge attached on the left chest.

布雷泽外套和套装西服相似，也有翻领。它是单排扣或双排扣，通常有贴袋。其明显的特征是用海军蓝色面料制作，饰有金色或银色的纽扣。和布雷泽外套搭配的裤子可以是不同色面料。许多社团制服或校服的上装常设计成布雷泽式，左前胸带有一个盾形的徽章。

Casual jacket　休闲夹克

A casual jacket is loose but tightens at the bottom. It is constituted of many cut pieces and often decorated with stitches. It has a zipper or snap buttons for fastenings; a stand collar or turn-down collar. There are many pockets on the front panel: patch pockets, zipper pockets or welt pockets; each of them is practical. The casual jacket can be made of cotton, denim, man-made fber fabrics or leather.

休闲夹克衣身宽松，但底部收紧。它由多个裁片构成，经常饰有明线。它有拉链或按扣，立领或翻领。前身有很多口袋：贴袋、拉链口袋或贴边袋，每个口袋都很实用。休闲夹克可以用棉、牛仔、人造纤维面料或皮革制作。

Safari jacket　猎装夹克

A safari jacket is a garment originally designed for the purpose of going on safari in the African bush. When matched with pants or shorts, it then becomes a safari suit. The safari jacket is commonly made of lightweight cotton drill or poplin. It is traditionally in khaki, with a self-belt and two epaulets. It has four or more bellows pockets to make it more practical.

猎装夹克最初是设计用来在非洲丛林中狩猎时穿的。与长裤或短裤搭配，便变成了狩猎套装。猎装夹克一般是用轻质的斜纹棉布或府绸制作。它传统上是卡其色，并带有本色腰带和肩襻。它有四个或更多的风箱口袋，使其更加实用。

Sweatshirt　运动衫

A sweatshirt is a warm piece of clothing for the upper part of the body, with long sleeves, often made of knitted cotton. It is an informal type of clothing; men usually wear it when they do sports or go travelling（Figure 9-7）.

运动衫是保暖的上身服装，长袖，通常用针织棉面料制作。它是一种便装，男士们一般在运动或外出旅游时穿着（图9-7）。

Figure 9-7　Jackets and tops
图9-7　上衣

9.3.2　Coats（Figure　9-8）外套大衣（图9-8）

Trench coat　战壕式风衣

This coat evolved from the European military uniform which was used in the trenches during the First World War. The traditional style is double-breasted with 10 buttons, having lapels, a storm fap and two fap pockets with buttons on it. It has a belt at the waist and two buckled straps around the wrists. There are two epaulettes on the shoulders which once had military practicability. Its length is various ranging from just above the knee to the ankle. Trench coat is made of waterproof durable cotton twill fabrics. Although its traditional color was khaki, newer versions of it come in many colors.

这种风衣是从第一次世界大战时在战壕中使用的欧洲军服演变而来。传统的款式是有10颗纽扣的双排扣式；有翻领、披胸布和两个钉有纽扣的带盖插袋；腰部系有腰带，腕部有带扣襻的腕带。肩上有肩襻，肩襻曾经具有军事实用性。衣长有多种样式，从膝盖以上到脚踝不等。战壕式风衣用防水耐用的斜纹棉布制成。风衣传统的颜色是卡其色，而新版的风衣中有多种颜色。

Chesterfield　柴斯特菲尔德外套

A chesterfeld is a long, tailored overcoat. Its name originated from a British earl's name in the 19 th century; and was a staple of smartly dressed men's wardrobes from the 1920s to 1960s. It can be single or double breasted and has a velvet collar and a fy front. The chesterfield can be made with many kinds of heavy fabrics in different patterns; however, the classic style of it is made of black or charcoal tweed. It is very versatile, that can be worn over casual wear as well as a suit or semi-formal dress.

柴斯特菲尔德外套是长款合体的大衣。它的名字来自19世纪一个英国伯爵的名字，在20世纪20年代到60年代，它是衣着精致的男士们衣橱里的必备行头。它单双排扣都可以，有带天鹅绒的领子和暗门襟。柴斯特菲尔德外套可以用多种不同图案的厚质面料制作，但它的经典款是用黑色或灰色的粗花呢制作的。它的用途非常广泛，既可以穿在西装或半正式服装的外面，也可以穿在休闲装外面。

Pea coat　海员短大衣

A pea coat is generally made of navy-colored heavy wool. It was originally worn by sailors of the European and later by the American navy. It is characterized by short length, a double-breasted placket, broad lapels, large buttons, and vertical or slash pockets.

海员短大衣通常用海军蓝色的厚重毛料制作。它最初是由欧洲水手穿着而后被美国海军穿着。它以短衣身，宽领面，双排扣衣襟，大纽扣，竖式或斜式的插袋为特点。

Duffel coat　达夫尔外套

A duffel coat is a coat made of duffel which is a coarse, thick woolen fabric. The name derives from Duffel, a town in Belgium where the fabric originated from. It was once worn by the British Royal Navy. The duffe coat is notably characterized by an oversized hood and several toggles with loops to attach them to. The hood offers enough room to wear over a navy cap; and the wooden or plastic toggle fastenings are easily to be fastened and unfastened for sailors while wearing gloves in cold weather at sea.

达夫尔外套是用一种粗糙、厚实的羊毛制品达夫尔面料制作而成的。这个名字来自比利时的一个小镇达夫尔，那里是这种面料起源的地方。它曾被英国皇家海军穿着过。达夫尔外套的显著特征是有个超大的风帽和数个带圆环的拴扣。风帽有足够大的空间可以戴在海军帽上面，木制或塑料制的拴扣易于士兵在天气寒冷的海面上戴着手套扣上或解开。(www.xing528.com)

Balmacaan　巴尔玛外套

A balmacaan is a loose, full overcoat with raglan sleeves. It is named after an estate near Inverness, Scotland. It is single breasted, and has fy front and slash pockets. Tweed and gabardine are the common fabrics to make the balmacaan.

巴尔玛外套是一件相对宽松，有插肩袖的大衣。它是以苏格兰因弗尼斯（英国苏格兰北部的一个城市）附近的一个庄园命名的。它是单排扣，有暗门襟和斜插袋。制作巴尔玛外套常用的面料是粗花呢和华达呢。

Anorak　防风衣（连帽风衣）

An anorak is a hooded short coat, sometimes having a cord at the waist or the bottom hem. It has many pockets, which are very practical. It is generally made of functional fabrics which are wind resistant, waterproof and breathable. Men often wear anoraks when doing outdoor exercise or going climbing.

防风衣是件连帽的短外套，有时在腰部或底摆有一根绳带。它有很多口袋，都非常实用。它通常是用防风、防水、透气的功能性面料制作而成的。男士们经常在进行户外运动或登山时穿着防风衣。

Figure 9-8　Coats
图9-8　外套

9.3.3　Pants（Figure　9-9）裤子（图9-9）

Suit pants　西裤

Suit pants are originally worn matching with suit jackets, but now they can also go with shirts or T-shirts. They are more formal than other types of men's pants. They have two side pockets and two rear welt pockets. On the legs of the pants there are two center creases down to the bottom that make the men's legs look straight and long.

西裤原本是和套装西服搭配的，但现在也可以和衬衫或T恤衫搭配。它比其他类型的男裤要正式一些。它有两个侧口袋和两个后开袋。裤腿上有两条裤中线，让男士的腿看起来又直又长。

Cargo pants　工装裤

Cargo pants are a type of loose pants that have many pockets in various places, for example on the side of the leg above the knee. They are originally designed for tough outwork and the fabrics used to make them are usually wear-resistant. If the length is shorter, then they are known as cargo shorts.

工装裤是一种宽松型的裤子，在很多地方都有口袋，如在膝盖上方裤腿的侧面。它最初是为艰苦的户外工作设计的，制作它的面料通常是耐磨的。如果裤长较短，则被称为“工装短裤”。

Bermuda shorts　百慕大短裤

Bermuda shorts can be worn as semi-casual or business attire. The hem, which can be cuffed or uncuffed, is around 1 inch（2.54cm）above the knee. They are available in a variety of colors, including many pastel shades as well as darker shades.

百慕大短裤可穿作半休闲或商务服装。裤口可以卷边或不卷边，其长度大约在膝盖以上1英寸（2.54厘米）处。它在颜色上有多种选择，既有深色调，也包括很多浅色调。

They are so-named because of their popularity in Bermuda, a British overseas territory, where they are considered as appropriate business attire for men. They are made of suit-like fabrics and worn with knee-length socks, a dress shirt, a tie, and a blazer. They are more appropriate to be worn in hot subtropical and tropical climates than the typical heavier clothing favored in Europe.Even nowadays they are also worn on some business occasions in the hotter seasons, especially in the United States, Australia, and New Zealand.

它之所以得名，是因为它在英国海外领地百慕大地区非常流行，在那里它被看作是男士适合的商务着装。它用类似西服的面料制作，搭配齐膝的袜子、礼服衬衫、领带和布雷泽外套。比起在欧洲流行的典型的厚重服装，它更适合在炎热的亚热带和热带气候里穿着。即使现在，在炎热的季节里，它仍穿于一些商务场合，特别是在美国、澳大利亚和新西兰。

Harem pants　哈伦裤

Harem pants were once women's clothing, but nowadays they have become popular with men as well. Harem pants were historically baggy, long, and caught in at the ankle. However, currently they mainly refer to those pants which are loose and have many folds at the drapes, and tightened at the bottom. Besides these, pants with a very low crotch are also regarded as harem pants.

哈伦裤曾经是女性穿的裤子，但是现如今也已成为了男性的流行服装。历史上的哈伦裤又肥又长，并且在脚踝处束住。而现在的哈伦裤主要指那些宽松的，垂下很多褶皱，且裤脚收紧的裤子；另外，裆部很低的裤子也被认为是哈伦裤。

Figure 9-9　Pants
图9-9　裤子

Breeches　马裤

Breeches refer to the knee-length garments and are fastened by buttons, or straps and buckles at the bottom. They were worn by men from the late 16 th century to the early 19 th century. But they only survived in England as very formal attire since then. Nowadays they are sometimes used for some athletic wear, such as riding breeches and fencing breeches.

马裤指的是齐膝的裤子，在裤口用纽扣或带襻扣住。男士们从16世纪末到19世纪初一直穿马裤。但是从那以后，它只作为非常正式的着装在英国流传下来。现在它有时被用作一些体育运动装，如马术马裤和剑术马裤。

本章小结

■男性身材高大、健壮，呈倒梯形或倒三角形。男装变化稳定而微妙。

■男装设计有多种风格，每种风格各有其不同的设计特点。

■男装款式多种多样，每种款式有其各自的特点和穿着文化。

课后练习

1.Please retell the characteristics of each clothing design style and garment mentioned above.

请复述以上每种服装设计风格和各款服装的特点。

2.Please search for some pictures of men's clothing and describe the design.

请搜寻一些男装的图片并描述其设计。

3.Group practice: role play小组练习：角色扮演

Suppose you are a designer. Please explain your design works to other students as if they were your clients or bosses.

假设你是一名设计师，其他同学是你的客户或老板，请向他们介绍你的设计作品。