8.3.1 Jackets and coats（Figure 8-6）上衣和外套（图8-6）
Tailored jacket 西装外套
This is a tailored style of women's jacket whose length is around the hip. There are 1-3 buttons on the placket and 2-4 buttons near the sleeve opening. It is ftted at the waist, so it can show women's fgure better than some other looser garments.
这是精致裁剪的女装款式。衣长在臀围上下；前襟有1—3颗纽扣；袖口附近有2—4颗纽扣。它腰部合体，所以比起其他宽松的女装，可以更好地展现女性的身材。
Cardigan style jacket 开襟式外套
This style of jacket has a front opening; can be fastened or unfastened. It is a little loose-ftting and usually has no collar. Woven fabrics and knitted fabrics are both suitable to make it. The jacket made of knitted fabrics is more favored by women because of its soft feel.
这种上衣是对襟式，可系合也可敞开。它略微宽松，通常没有领子，梭织面料和针织面料都适合制作这种服装。针织面料做成的开襟式外套因其手感柔软而更受女性青睐。
All-weather coat 全天候外套
An all-weather coat is worn on the very outside of all garments. It has various lengths: above the knee, at the knee and below the knee; the knee-length style is the most popular. It is characterized by having two wrist straps on the sleeves, two fap pockets on the front, and two epaulets on the shoulders. It is decorated with a self-belt which makes the wearer look slender. The all-weather coat evolved from men's trench coats in the First World War. This coat can be easy to coordinate with outfts according to the temperature in spring and autumn, so it becomes a necessary item in women's wardrobes.
全天候外套穿在所有衣服的最外面。它有多种长度：膝盖以上，齐膝和膝盖以下；齐膝的款式最流行。它的特点是袖子上有腕带；前身有两个带盖的口袋；肩上有肩襻；饰有一条本色腰带，让穿着者更显苗条。全天候外套是由一战时男装中的战壕式风衣演变而来的。在春秋季节，它易于根据气温搭配服装，所以成为女性衣橱中的必备品。
Chanel suit style jacket 夏奈尔套装式上衣
Chanel suit was designed by Coco Chanel and is one of her most famous design works. This style of jacket is collarless, and is characterized by hem-stitching and employing the particular “Chanel tweed”. It was designed about 100 years ago, although the fashion trend had changed greatly, it is still alive in the 21 st century.
夏奈尔套装是由可可·夏奈尔设计的，是她最著名的设计作品之一。这类上衣没有领子，其特点是镶边和用独特的“夏奈尔”粗花呢制作。它是在一百年前设计的，虽然当时的时尚潮流已经时过境迁，但在21世纪依然流行。
Short jacket 短上衣
A short jacket is a little shorter and the length is around the waist. It can be form-ftting or loose-ftting. If matched appropriately, wearing a short jacket can make a wearer look taller, e.g.matched with long pants or a short skirt.
短上衣稍短一点，长度在腰部上下。它可以合体也可以宽松。如果搭配得当，穿短上衣可以使穿着者看起来更高挑一些，比如搭配长裤或短裙。
Denim jacket 牛仔上衣
A denim jacket is a leisure garment which can be worn on many occasions. Double stitches and metal buttons are its typical characteristics. Although its style design is relatively formulaic, the details have likewise changed a lot following the fashion dynamics through the years.
牛仔上衣是一种可以在很多场合穿着的休闲服。双缉明线和金属纽扣是它的典型特征。虽然它的款式设计相对程式化，但长时间以来，其细节也随着时尚动态发生了很大变化。
Figure 8-6 Jackets and coats
图8-6 上衣和外套
8.3.2 Blouses 衬衫
Base style blouse 基本款衬衫
It has something in common with a shirt, but has more variations than men's shirt（Figure 8-7）.
类似于（男士）衬衫，但比男士衬衫更富有变化（图8-7）。
Peplum style blouse 裙腰式衬衫
A peplum style blouse consists of two parts: a bodice and a peplum which is attached to the waistline（Figure 8-8）. The peplum is a fared frill; it can be made of self fabric or another fabric.Peter Pan collar is very common in this style.
Figure 8-7 Base style blouse
图8-7 基本款衬衫
裙腰式衬衫由两部分组成：合体的上衣和衔接在腰部的小短裙（图8-8）。小短裙是一条喇叭状的裙边；可以用本色面料或另一种面料制作。“彼得·潘领”（小圆领）是这种风格的常见领型。
Mock two-piece style blouse 假两件式衬衫
It consists of two parts: the inside shirt and the outside knitwear（Figure 8-9）. Actually, the inside shirt is not complete; the invisible part does not exist and the visible part is sewn on the outside knitwear. The knitwear can be a pullover or a cardigan. Looking at the whole, this outft seems to consist of two pieces, but in fact it is just one piece.
它由两部分组成：里面的衬衫和外面的针织衫（图8-9）。实际上，里面的衬衫是不完整的；看不见的部分并不存在，看得见的部分缝在了外面的针织衫上。针织衫可以是一件套头衫或开衫。从整体上看，这件衣服像是两件套，但实际上它只是一件。
Figure 8-8 Peplum style blouse
图8-8 裙腰式衬衫
Figure 8-9 Mock two-piece style blouse
图8-9 假两件式衬衫
8.3.3 Dresses（Figure 8-10）and skirts（Figure 8-11）连衣裙（图8-10）和半身裙（图8-11）
Base style dress 基本款连衣裙
The modeling of a base style dress is simple and does not have any redundant decorations; the length is generally above the knee, having or no sleeves. It can be easy to be matched; ladies usually wear it under a coat or a tailored jacket. The silhouette of it can be H-line, A-line or X-line.
基本款连衣裙的造型简洁，没有多余的装饰；长度一般在膝盖以上；有或没有袖子。它很容易搭配，女士们经常穿在外套或西服以内。它的廓型可以是H型、A型或X型。
Cheongsam style dress旗袍裙
Cheongsam style dress can also have many variations in addition to the traditional classic type. For instance, the slits can be placed on the front, back or no slits at all; the length can be below the knee or above the knee; the neck can be drop-shaped or petal-shaped. Besides silk, it can be made of cotton, linen or lace as well.
旗袍式连衣裙除了传统的经典款还可以有很多变化。例如，开衩可以在前面、后面或没有开衩；长度可以在膝下或膝上；领形可以是水滴形或花瓣形。除了丝绸，还可以用棉布、亚麻或蕾丝制作。
Beach dress 沙滩裙
A beach dress is very long and can almost touch the foor. It is a kind of summer holiday clothing, which is derived from the Bohemia style and often designed with bright colors andlarge foral patterns.Silk and chiffon are the best choice to make beach dresses, because they can produce a gracefully romantic effect. The beach dress has neither collars nor sleeves, and the halter neck is very common. It can go with a straw hat or a sunhat, fip fops and sunglasses.
沙滩裙非常长，几乎可以垂到地面。它是一种夏季度假服装，源于波西米亚风格，通常用亮丽的颜色和大花图案进行设计。丝绸和雪纺是制作沙滩裙的最佳面料选择，可以产生优美浪漫的效果。沙滩裙无领无袖，吊带领很常见。它可以与草帽或太阳帽、人字拖和太阳镜相搭配。
Blouson dress宽松束腰连衣裙
Blouson is originally a jacket which draws tight at the waist and is loose above the waistband. It takes most of the traits of the American bomber jacket. A blouson dress is loose at the upper part but close ftting from the waist to the bottom; many offce ladies often wear this style of dress.
“布拉桑”原来是一种腰部收紧、腰带以上宽松的夹克。它吸收了美国飞行夹克的大部分特点。宽松束腰连衣裙的上身宽松，腰部到底摆贴体，许多白领丽人经常穿着这种风格的服装。
Trapeze dress 梯形裙
It is a very loose A-line dress that swings away from the body and does not cling to the body. This dress style has become very popular in recent years.
这是一种非常宽松的A字形连衣裙，摆动于身体之上，不贴体。这种裙型近年来非常流行。
Evening dress 晚礼服
An evening dress is worn on formal occasions in the evening, like cocktail parties or celebrations. It is very form-ftting and commonly has a full length; sometimes a dress is tailored for just one certain customer and is fnely sewn. Ladies should be more elegant and noble if matched with a fne clutch purse, high heels and exquisite jewelry.
晚礼服穿于晚间正式场合，如鸡尾酒会或庆典仪式。它非常合体，通常长及脚面；有时一件礼服只为一位顾客量身订制，且制作精美。女士们搭配精致的手袋、高跟鞋和精美的首饰后会更加优雅高贵。
Wedding dress/wedding gown 婚纱礼服
A wedding dress is worn by a bride during the wedding ceremony. It is generally in all white symbolizing the virginity of the bride. Some wedding dresses are strapless style, while some have attached sleeves. The lower part of the wedding dress can be a bell skirt or a fshtail skirt, and sometimes has a train. Wedding dresses are mainly made of brocade, gauze or lace. When wearing a wedding dress, the bride also wears a white wedding veil and takes a bouquet in her hands.(www.xing528.com)
婚纱礼服是新娘在婚礼时穿着的。它通常是全白色，象征着新娘的纯洁。有的婚纱是抹胸式的，有些附有袖子；婚纱的下半部分可以是钟形裙或鱼尾裙，有时带有拖裾。婚纱主要由锦缎、薄纱或蕾丝制作。穿婚纱时新娘还会戴一条白色的头纱，手里拿着花束。
Figure 8-10 Dresses
图8-10 连衣裙
Miniskirt 迷你裙
The hemline of a miniskirt is well above the knee, generally at mid-thigh level or even shorter. A dress with such a hemline is called a miniskirt dress. A miniskirt can be matched with tailored jackets, blouses and T-shirts. It is very popular among young girls because it can show their slender legs; and can also be worn by tennis players, cheerleaders and dancers.
迷你裙的底摆在膝盖以上，通常在大腿的中间位置，甚至更短。有这种底摆长度的连衣裙称作“超短连衣裙”。迷你裙可以与西服、衬衫和T恤相搭配。它在年轻女孩中很受欢迎，因为可以展现她们纤细的双腿；也是网球运动员、啦啦队和舞蹈演员的惯常穿着。
Pegged skirt 楔形裙
A pegged skirt is a little wider at the hip but tapers gradually towards the bottom. Its length is normally below the knee. It sometimes has slits on the front, back or sides for women to walk conveniently.
楔形裙在臀部稍宽，但逐渐向底摆收紧，长度一般在膝盖以下。有时会在前面、后面或侧面开有衩口，以方便女性走路。
Straight skirt 直筒裙
Straight skirts can have various lengths: at the knee, above the knee and below the knee.
直筒裙可以有多种长度：齐膝、膝盖以上和过膝。
Full skirt/bell skirt 蓬蓬裙
A skirt with fullness gathered into the waistband. Its shape is just like an umbrella, a bell or a reversed bud. It can make a woman have a young and lovely look; notice that it is suitable for a slender lady but not for a chubby one.
一种造型饱满并在腰部收紧的裙子。其外形就像雨伞、吊钟或倒立的花苞。它可以使女性拥有年轻可爱的外表，值得注意的是，它适合身材苗条而非丰满的女士。
Flared skirt/A-line skirt 喇叭裙
A fared skirt fts at the waist but fares out to the hemline. Its silhouette is like an A shape or a triangle. It can make women look elegant and modest, and once was very popular in the 1950s.
喇叭裙在腰部合体，但是向下摆张开。它的廓型像一个A字形或三角形。它可以让女性看起来优雅端庄，在20世纪50年代曾经非常流行。
Figure 8-11 Skirts
图8-11 半身裙
8.3.4 Pants（Figure 8-12）裤子（图8-12）
Hot pants 热裤
Hot pants are very short and tight with the waistband below the navel, and the leg openings are around the joint of the buttocks and thighs. Women who have slim legs are suitable to wear this style of pants.
热裤非常短也非常紧身，裤腰在肚脐以下，裤口差不多是在臀部与腿部的衔接处。双腿修长的女性适合穿着这种类型的裤子。
Flared pants/bellbottoms 喇叭裤
Flared pants are form-ftting at the hip and then gradually become wide from above the knee to the bottom; they can make the leg lines more graceful.
喇叭裤在臀围处非常合体，然后从膝盖以上到裤脚逐渐加宽；它可以使腿部线条更加优美。
Tapered pants 锥形裤
Tapered pants are form-ftting or a little loose at the hip, but become narrower at the bottom; the shape is just like an awl. They can make the wearer's legs look long, straight and slim.
锥形裤在臀部合体或稍微宽松一点，但在裤脚变窄，造型就像一个锥子。它可以使穿着者的双腿显得修长、挺直和纤细。
Leggings 打底裤
Leggings are very skinny, usually in black. They are worn under a wool jumper or a wool skirt in winter; and are worn under a long blouse or a miniskirt in spring and autumn. The length can be at the mid-calf or near the ankle. Leggings are often made of fabrics which are blended with spandex fbers, so they are worn very comfortably.
打底裤非常紧身，通常是黑色。冬天穿在毛衫裙或羊毛裙的里面，春秋季穿在长衫或短裙的里面。其长度可以在小腿中部或脚踝附近。打底裤一般用含有氨纶纤维的面料制作，所以穿起来非常舒服。
Capri pants卡布里裤（合体七分裤）
Capri pants are a close-ftting type of pants ending between the knee and the ankle. “Capri” is named after the Isle of Capri in Italy where these pants were frst worn.
“卡布里裤”（合体七分裤）是一种长度在膝盖和脚踝之间的紧身裤子。“卡布里”是以意大利的卡布里岛命名的，在那里这种裤子最早被穿用。
Cropped pants 宽松七分裤
The length of cropped pants is similar to that of Capri pants, and can end anywhere on the calf. The difference between Capri pants and cropped pants is that the former is formftting but the latter is looser.Cropped pants became very popular in the United States in the 1950s; they were known as clam diggers at that time. The shorter length of cropped pants makes them ideal for bicycle riding, as long pant legs may become tangled in the bike chain.
宽松七分裤的长度和卡布里裤相似，可以长及小腿的任何位置。卡布里裤和宽松七分裤的区别在于前者合体，而后者较宽松。宽松七分裤在20世纪50年代的美国非常流行，在那时它被称为“挖蛤裤”。宽松七分裤因为长度稍短非常便于骑自行车，而长裤的裤腿则有可能会被自行车的链条缠住。
Culottes 裙裤
Culottes were once a type of men's clothing in European history, but nowadays they usually refer to women's wear. They look like a skirt, however they are actually pants. They also come down to between the knee and the ankle.
“克尤罗特”（裙裤）在欧洲历史上曾经是一种男装，但是现在通常指女装。它看起来像裙子，但实际上是裤子。其长度在膝盖和脚踝之间。
Figure 8-12 Pants
图8-12 裤子
本章小结
■女性身材曲线玲珑，女装比男装设计效果更美观，且富有变化性。
■女装设计有多种风格，每种风格有其不同的设计特点。
■女装款式多种多样，每种款式皆有其丰富的细节特征。
课后练习
1.Please retell the characteristics of each clothing design style and garment mentioned above.
请复述以上每种服装设计风格和各款服装的特点。
2.Please search for some pictures of women's clothing and describe the design.
请搜寻一些女装的图片并描述其设计。
3.Group exercise: role play 小组练习：角色扮演
Suppose you are a designer, Please explain your design works to other students as if they were your clients or bosses.
假设你是一名设计师，其他同学是客户或老板，请向他们介绍你的设计作品。
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