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彭镇:双流门户和槐轩学派的发源地

时间:2023-05-30 理论教育 版权反馈
【摘要】:The centuries-old Pengzhen彭镇,明代时即屯聚成市,始名永丰场,明末毁于战乱。彭镇不仅扼杨柳、金马两江之险,也成为双流门户。民国初年,彭家场改设为彭镇。另一名彭镇文化名人是开创了槐轩学派的川西夫子刘沅。刘沅祖籍湖北麻城,出生在双流县云栖里。刘沅早年在彭镇旧宅收徒授课,著书立说,后又迁居成都南门纯化街建立槐轩书塾,弟子众多。

彭镇:双流门户和槐轩学派的发源地

The centuries-old Pengzhen

彭镇,

明代时即屯聚成市,始名永丰场,明末毁于战乱。

杨柳河南北穿境而过,

成就了历史上远近闻名的水陆码头

彭镇不仅扼杨柳、金马两江之险,

也成为双流门户。

古往今来古镇涌现出不少名人

创立学派、兴办教育、著书立说。

Pengzhen, o rig ina lly nam ed Yong feng chang,

took shape as a m a rke tp la ce in the M ing Dynas ty and w as des troyed in w a rs tha t led to the dem ise of the M ing.

The Yang liu R ive r runs th rough the tow n

in a no rth-sou th d ire c tion,

m ak ing it a w e ll-know n po rt tow n in the pas t.

Th roughou t h is to ry, the tow n has been hom e to a num be r of ce leb rities,

inc lud ing th inke rs, edu ca to rs, w rite rs and theo ris ts.

彭镇观音阁老茶馆
Guanyinge, an old tea house in Pengzhen

彭镇观音阁老茶馆
Guanyinge, an old tea house in Pengzhen

彭镇观音阁老茶馆
Guanyinge, an old tea house in Pengzhen

在时代的变迁中,曾经喧哗的百年老镇渐渐隐没,安静地固守着一份传统,小青瓦房、木排铺子过滤掉城市的喧嚣,老茶馆、银杏林,匠人的手艺与市井的烟火在这里妥帖融合,旧时光凝固在氤氲的茶汤中,令人感慨。

Over time, the old town, once busy w ith activities, fell into oblivion, quietly clinging to its tradition. The small buildings w ith black-tiled roofs and wooden-structure shops are far away from the urban bustle and hustle. Old tea houses, ginkgo woods, handicrafts and street food fall into place here. The m ist of tea soup is rem iniscent of the old days.

彭镇观音阁老茶馆
Guanyinge, an old tea house in Pengzhen

彭镇观音阁老茶馆
Guanyinge, an old tea house in Pengzhen

彭镇观音阁老茶馆
Guanyinge, an old tea house in Pengzhen

彭镇观音阁老茶馆
Guanyinge, an old tea house in Pengzhen

彭镇观音阁老茶馆
Guanyinge, an old tea house in Pengzhen

彭镇茶馆
The tea house in Pengzhen

● 文采风流

明末清初,大量外省移民迁至此地。随着人口的增多,清中期时彭家场已经成为大场。清初,丹棱籍的彭端淑家族移居于此,此地也由此更名为彭家场,亦称彭场。民国初年,彭家场改设为彭镇。彭端淑是清代四川著名文学家,与李调元、张问陶一起被誉为清代“蜀中三才子”。他是清雍正十一年(1733年)进士,清乾隆二十年(1755年)出任广东肇罗道署察使,六年后辞官归蜀,后在成都锦江书院从教。在锦江书院做学府道台期间,彭端淑常到杨柳河畔巡视,见此处风景秀丽,舟楫繁忙,确是著诗赋文的好地方,于是就在此定居,其弟彭肇洙、彭遵泗也都是文采风流,一时俊杰。

另一名彭镇文化名人是开创了槐轩学派的川西夫子刘沅。刘沅祖籍湖北麻城,出生在双流县云栖里(今彭镇柑梓社区)。刘沅幼承庭训,长遇名师,一生著作甚丰,创立的“槐轩学说”影响至今。刘沅早年在彭镇旧宅收徒授课,著书立说,后又迁居成都南门纯化街建立槐轩书塾,弟子众多。现在彭镇老茶馆里,槐轩文化讲堂每月开展两次,槐轩书院的改建也在进行中,人们以这种方式纪念这位彭镇先贤,也以这种方式传承着一方文脉。

彭镇观音阁老茶馆
Guanyinge, an old tea house in Pengzhen(www.xing528.com)

彭镇茶馆
The tea house in Pengzhen

彭镇观音阁老茶馆
Guanyinge, an old tea house in Pengzhen

Lite ra ry and cu ltu ra l lega cy

During the late M ing and early Qing period, many people from other provinces m igrated to this town. As the population grew, Pengjiachang had emerged a big marketplace by the m idd le of the Qing Dynasty. In the early Qing Dynasty, Peng Duanshu’s fam ily, originally from Danling, m igrated here. As a result, the town was renamed Pengjiachang, or Pengchang. In the early years of the Republic of China, Pengjiachang was renamed Pengzhen. Peng Duanshu, a famed Sichuan literary w riter of the Qing Dynasty, was one of the Three Gifted Scholars in Sichuan which also included Li Diaoyuan and Zhang Wentao.

Another cultural lum inary of Pengzhen is Liu Yuan, reputed as the Confucius in Western Sichuan, who established the Huai Xuan School. Born in Yunqili(today’s Ganzi Community, Pengzhen), Shuangliu, Liu Yuan is a provincial scholar(juren) during Emperor Qianlong’s reign. Liu once held such off ices as magistrate of Tianmen County, Hubei and an archivist at the Directorate of Imperial Academy, then resigned and returned to his hometown. Liu received good fam ily education in his boyhood and studied under a good teacher when he grew up. He was a prolif ic w riter and a consummate Confucian master. His Huai Xuan doctrine is still inf luential today. Liu f irst taught disciples at his old house in Pengzhen. Later, he moved to Chunhua Street, South Gate, Chengdu where he founded Huaixuan Private School, inf luencing many students. Today, in an old tea house in Pengzhen, the Huaixuan Cultural Lectures program gives two lectures every month. The renovation of Huaixuan Academy is also underway. In doing so, local people pay homage to the worthy predecessor of the town and pass down the local cultural legacy.

秀恩爱
Showing affection

彭镇观音阁老茶馆
Guanyinge,an old tea house in Pengzhen

● 观音阁老茶馆

如果说茶馆是老成都的灵魂,那么彭镇的观音阁老茶馆堪称形神兼备,无出其右,被誉为成都茶文化活化石

相传一百多年前,一场突如其来的大火让整个镇子几乎化为灰烬,唯独此宅幸存,人们认为这是得到了观音的庇护,便将它改为一座观音庙。民国初期,这里被用做茶馆,当地人都叫它“观音阁”。

灰青色的瓦屋,纯木穿斗结构,典型的川西坝子的建筑风格。凌晨四点半,月正勾梢,茶馆就准时开门等待着茶客。走进其中,黄泥敷成的墙体已剥蚀脱落,露出发黑斑驳的竹篱。竹椅子和矮茶几随意陈列着,老虎灶上壶里的水还未沸腾,正响得厉害。天色微明,镇上的老熟客已经陆续走了进来。早起来到老茶馆要上一杯盖碗,已是他们生活的一部分。俄尔水开,茶已泡好,一元钱一杯的三花经茶博士传送到茶客的矮桌上,整个过程行云流水,无需多言。飘逸的茶香遂在缭绕的烟雾中散开,晨光从天井照射下来,打在老茶客的脸上,光影明暗间,沧桑平静,宽厚慈祥,生活的甘苦都写在脸上。小镇的过往岁月都在这里了。

观音阁茶馆朴素地道的老成都味道让天南地北怀旧的人们趋之若鹜,更成为摄影家最心仪的民俗场景。在老茶馆里,除了喝茶、摆龙门阵的茶客,刮脸剃头、掏耳朵、雕烟壶、唱川鼓的穿梭其间,更有帅哥靓女走秀、拍婚纱照,现代和过去奇妙地结合在一起,反差与对比格外强烈,让人骤生时光穿越与凝固之感。观音阁老茶馆现被列入成都市第五批历史建筑保护名录,成为一座活着的文化地标。

Guany inge, an old tea house

If tea houses are the soul of the old Chengdu, then Guanyinge, an old tea house in Pengzhen, is arguably the best of its kind, inside and out. Guanyinge is regarded as a living fossil of Chengdu’s tea culture.

It is said that more than a century ago, a sudden big f ire almost reduced the entire town to ashes. Only this house survived. People believed that it was protected by Guanyin, so it was converted into a Guanyin temple. In the early days of the Republic of China period, this building was used as a tea house. Locals called it Guanyinge.

This tea house is a typical western Sichuan building. Bamboo chairs and low tea tables are arranged random ly. The traditional old-style tiger stove is retained. The tea house opens at dawn to receive its regulars in town. The three-f lower tea, one yuan a cup, attracts numerous visitors. The authentic old Chengdu f lavor at Guanyinge is sought after by f locks of visitors from various places. The tea house is also a favorite folk scene for photographers. At this old tea house, in addition to guests who have idle talks over tea, there are barbers, ear cleaners, pipe smokers and Sichuan drum players, as well as handsome men, pretty women and those who take wedding photos. The present and the past combine into one in a marvelous way, contrasting each other saliently. Such a m ix gives people a sense of time travel. Guanyinge has been included in Chengdu’s f ifth list of historical buildings under protection, becom ing a living cultural landmark.

彭镇观音阁老茶馆
Guanyinge,an old tea house in Pengzhen

彭家场的老宅院
The old houses of Peng jiachang

人民桥
The Renm in B ridge

彭家场
Peng jia chang

● 江桥记忆

早年彭镇也似众多的川西小镇,九宫十八庙俱全。关帝庙、文昌庙、燃灯寺、观音寺、火神庙和川主庙融合了移民与本地习俗。彭镇的繁荣,得益于杨柳河。杨柳河自温江流来,经柑梓乡入境,河水贯通全镇,清乾隆八年(1743年)建成彭家场码头,“商舶要津,旧以舟渡”,彭家场成了县城西外各类农商物品贸易的主要集散地。清乾隆二十九年(1765年),在县知事徐钺倡议主持下,杨柳河上建成一石拱桥,时名“第一桥”,山光草色,水岸横舟,被列入双流县八景,人称“第一春波”。彭端淑为该桥题词并撰写碑文:“去邑郭西十里许,曰彭家场,一曰杨桥,以二家得名故也,其地膏腴,产稻麦菽麻,蓝淀之属,甲于他邑。市旁曰杨柳河,其水自灌口来,迤逶至江口,汇锦水达于荆楚吴越之间,舟楫往来不绝,四方商贾蜂拥蚁聚。”旧志中配图下有诗句:“山光草色翠岚拖,第一桥头春浪多。小艇远横杨柳岸,散人应自号烟波。”古桥后被洪水冲毁,1971年,改建为人民桥。

彭镇老街保留了众多清代至民国时期所建的各类民居,间或有中西结合的洋房,原住民的生活状态保持着古镇固有的风情和气息。永丰街是老街中最长的一条街,街道两旁排布着棉麻商、食杂铺、纸火铺、烧卤店、米面加工铺、钟表店等等,民国时期的门楼牌面尚有保留,旧痕遗迹中透出曾经的繁华。

M em o ry of the rive r and its b ridge s

Like many small towns in western Sichuan, the early Pengzhen had a full range of Taoist, Buddhist and Confucian tem ples. The Guandi Tem ple, Wenchang Tem ple, Randeng Tem ple, Guanyin Tem ple, Fire God Temple and Chuanzhu Temple blended the customs of m igrants and locals. The town thrived on the Yangliu River. In the 29th year of Emperor Qianlong’s reign in the Qing Dynasty(1765), a stone bridge was built over the river, then called the First Bridge. The sight of an idle boat below the bridge against hills and grasses, known as the First Spring Wave, was included in the Eight Views of Shuangliu. Later, the old bridge was destroyed by a f lood. In 1971, the People’s Bridge was built instead.

The old streets in the town have retained many residential dwellings of the Qing and Republic of China styles, as well as houses that m ix Chinese and Western styles. Indigenous people here lead a traditional way of life unique to the old town. Yongfeng Street, the longest old street, is lined up w ith various shops selling cotton, linen, grocery, funerary objects, cooked or marinated dishes, processed rice and f lour, and timepieces. The gatehouses of the Republic of China style are partially retained, show ing the traces of past prosperity.

易如反掌
As easy as winking

位于成都主城西南方的双流,境内平畴沃野间有浅丘。岷江流过城西,锦江(府河)纵贯城区,鹿溪河、杨柳河、江安河分布南北,一草一木,皆足留恋,一丘一壑,悉堪吟咏。历史上就有“八景”之说,即第一春波、卦台钟晓、金花夜月、簇锦凉风、塔桥响应、山寺圣灯、牧马飨堂和涌泉山瀑。古人依山依水造景,有山则建寺造瀑,遇水则搭桥植树,在平地则建塔造势形成错落之美。一日之内,晨钟夜月变幻有致,江桥、山寺传递着对先贤的追思。簇锦凉风中缓缓转动的水车,金花桥头宽大的牌坊,山寺小径上行走的访客……无一不折射出这片土地的诗意栖息。

“何人更散浣溪花,分得余晖傍水涯。一簇春光真是锦,千层月彩尚流霞”,这是清代川西夫子刘沅为自己的家乡写下的美丽诗句。

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