的历史文化名镇-黄龙溪

Huanglongxi, a major Tianfu ancient town

黄龙溪建镇1700多年，是中国最早一批“历史文化名镇”，还是三国蜀汉政权的军事经济重镇。《华阳国志·蜀志》记载“（建安）二十四年，黄龙见武阳赤水九日”，见此奇观，刘备遂称帝。这是浑黄的鹿溪河水注入清澈的锦江，呈现出的自然景观。黄龙溪因此得名，也染上了几许神秘色彩。

黄龙溪是府河航道和南丝绸之路重要的水码头。“窗含西岭千秋雪，门泊东吴万里船”中，“万里船”从成都出发的第一站便是夜宿黄龙溪，正所谓“万里桥方渡，双流径已存”，所以也就有了“朝出锦官城，夜宿黄龙溪，日有千人拱手，夜有万盏明灯”的繁华景象。

黄龙溪
Huang longxi

Huanglongxi, dating back 1,700 years, is one of China’s f irst Historically and Culturally Famous Towns. It was also a strategic m ilitary town of the state of Shu Han during the Three Kingdoms period. According to The Chronicles of Huayang: Records of Shu, “In the 24th year of the Jian'an period（A.D. 219）, the shape of a yellow dragon appeared on the Chishui River, Wuyang for nine days.” In light of this spectacle, Liu Bei proclaimed himself emperor. In fact, the said spectacle is a natural sight due to the water from the turbid yellow Luxi River f low ing into the clear Jinjiang River. Huanglongxi derived its name from this phenomenon which gave it a mysterious touch.

The ancient town was once an important waterfront of the Fuhe River waterway and the Southern Silk Road. In the town, the old-style memorial archway, banyan trees, temples and residential dwellings blend into one harmonious whole. Named after a dragon sign, Huanglongxi thrives on its river which shapes the town’s skeleton. If the big cauldron in front of the town’s entrance is the dragon head, then the dragon body is the stream that f lows through the entire ancient street. Here, what can be seen and heard are mostly associated w ith dragon（long）, such as Longtou Square, Dragon Island, Zhenlong Street and Chuanlong Street, as well as dragon Buddha, dragon temple, dragon lantern and dragon boat.

黄龙溪
Huang longxi

黄龙溪生活图景
Life scenes of Huang longxi

黄龙溪生活图景
Life scenes of Huang longxi

黄龙溪生活图景
Life scenes of Huang longxi

古镇上，古牌坊、古榕树与古寺庙、古民居浑然一体。伴着淙淙的流水，走在黄龙溪的街道上，抬头，翘角飞檐；低头，石板辙痕。庙宇民居、店招酒幌，古老的乡风隆重而热闹，古意无处不在。从清晨到日暮，川流的人群仿佛复活的市井风俗画，置身其中，陶然悠游。

黄龙溪以龙为名，以水为骨。如果说古镇门前的大鼎是龙头，那龙身便是贯穿整条古街的溪流。在这里，见到的、听到的多带有“龙”字，龙头广场、龙岛、真龙街、川龙街；龙佛、龙寺、龙灯、龙舟一样不少。黄龙腾翔，欲飞还留。

黄龙溪二期工程
Phase II construction project of Huanglongxi

黄龙溪二期工程
Phase II construction project of Huanglongxi

黄龙溪码头古榕树
The ancient banyan trees at Huanglongxi terminal

黄龙溪码头
Huang longxi terminal

古龙寺
The Gulong Temple

潮音寺
The Chaoyin Temple

镇江寺
The Zhenjiang Temple

● 一街三寺庙

古色古香的黄龙正街仅有二百多米，却依次坐落着三座古庙：古龙寺、镇江寺、潮音寺。三大寺都是明清建筑，古龙寺和镇江寺遥遥相对，潮音寺位居中间，与古街融为一体。狭窄的古街同时坐落三座寺庙，重檐斗角，古朴庄严，全国仅此一地。

位于黄龙正街南首的古龙寺，坐南向北，巍峨高耸，是古镇修建最早的一座寺庙，寺内供奉黄龙祖师。古龙寺以古寺庙、古戏台、古榕树闻名。寺庙正门是川西地区常见的山门带戏台的万年台结构，已有三百多年历史，是黄龙溪九个戏台仅存的一个，台前空坝矗立着一座千佛铁塔。南北两棵古榕树已经上千年，遮天蔽日。这里曾是古镇的中心，县衙、祭祀、庙会、观戏、赶集，神人共处，各司其职。

坐落在黄龙正街北首的镇江寺原是清初移民兴建的“镇江王爷庙”。黄龙溪作为水码头，船商云集，镇江寺是船帮祭祀集会的场所。大殿供奉的杨家四爷源于湖南民间道教水神，传说他能斩除蛟龙，平定水患，被广泛尊奉。随着“湖广填川”，这一信仰也传到了黄龙溪。古时每逢会期，民众都会在镇江寺举行祭祀大礼，唱戏酬神，热闹三天方止。

潮音寺位于黄龙正街中部，本为古镇船帮的救济机构，负责救济孤寡、散发药物等善事，后来渐渐成为寺庙，它不仅供奉着观音大士、天地人三官，更是有着孔子的牌位，可谓“三教合流”。

岁月悠悠，三座古寺犹若三根铆钉，定住了古老的时光，梵呗缭绕处，一柱清香慰藉漂泊的心灵。

黄龙溪夜景
Night view of Huanglongxi

Th ree tem p les on one s tree t

There are three ancient temples on the quaint-looking Huanglong Main Street, i.e. the Gulong Temple, Zhenjiang Tem ple and Chaoyin Temple. A ll these temples are M ing- and Qing-style buildings. The former two are at the opposite ends of the street, while the Chaoyin Temple stands in the center, blending perfectly w ith the street. It is the only place in China where a narrow ancient street sits alongside three archaic, stately temples w ith double eaves and echoing corners.

The towering Gulong Temple, seated at the southern end of the main street and north-facing, is the oldest temple in the town. The temple worships Patriarch Yellow Dragon. The Gulong Temple is known for its ancient buildings, ancient theatrical stage and ancient banyan trees. This stage, more than 300 years old, is the only one extant out of the nine theatrical stages in the town.

The Zhenjiang Temple was formerly the Lord of Rivers Tem ple built by m igrants in the early Qing Dynasty. The tem ple was once the venue for sacrificial gatherings of merchant fleet as Huanglongxi was a wharf town where merchant ships gathered. The Fourth Lord Yang worshiped in the main hall originates from a Taoist river god of Hunan. Legend has it that the Lord is able to kill the f lood dragon, so it was w idely worshiped. W ith the large-scale m igration from Hunan, Hubei and Guangdong provinces, this belief was spread to Huanglongxi. Back then, at every gathering, people would hold a sacrif icial ceremony at the Zhenjiang Temple, perform ing plays in homage to the god for three days.

The Chaoyin Tem ple, seated in the m iddle of the main street, was originally a relief agency of the town’s merchant fleet that engaged in charity causes like helping orphans and w idows and distributing medicines. Later, it became a temple worshiping deities of “three religions” including Guanyin of Buddhism, the Three Great Emperor-Off icials of Taoism, and Confucius.

黄龙溪风光
The scene ry of Huang longxi

三县衙门
The tripArtite yamen

三县衙门
The tripArtite yamen

● 三县一衙门

黄龙溪本是一处繁忙的水码头，来往客商甚众，最为昌盛时河上船只绵延数里。这里旧时地处华阳、仁寿、彭山三县交界的“金三角”地带，鱼龙混杂，难以管理，往往一县之吏难惩他县之贼。为了改变这种局面，三县便借着共筑古佛堰之机，设立了总爷衙门，民间则称之为“三县衙门”。“三县衙门”设在古龙寺内，由三县轮流派出官员值守，除了负责古佛堰的堰务管理，还负责此地民事与治安。

黄龙穿山伸出龙爪抱鸡翅，白马临江勒转马头望虎岩。

衙门大门上的对联中黄龙、龙爪、鸡翅、白马、马头、虎岩六个地名，巧妙地包含了三县衙门的管辖范围。衙门里有一个脚印，传说是古代华阳、仁寿两县的交界。看过其间苍劲有力的官箴碑刻、栩栩如生的雕塑、雄浑壮阔的江牙山海图，就能感受到小小的衙门好似黄龙溪场镇的定海神针，自有一种威严肃穆。

A yam en run by th ree coun ties

Huanglongxi is located in a golden triangle bordering three counties, i.e. Huayang, Renshou and Pengshan. On the occasion of building the Gufo Weir, the three counties jointly set up a general government off ice（yamen）, privately known as “tripartite yamen”. The tripartite yamen, seated in the Gulong Temple, was attended by off icials from three counties in turn. In addition to affairs regarding the Gufo Weir, the yamen was also in charge of local civil and public security affairs.

黄龙溪航拍
Aerial shot of Huanglongxi

黄龙溪火龙灯舞2010年被列入“国家级非物质文化遗产名录”

The Huang longx i Fire D ragon Lan te rn Dance w as insc ribed on the Na tiona l In tang ib le Cu ltu ra l He ritage Lis t in 2010.

火龙飞舞
The Fire Dragon Lantern Dance

● 火龙灯舞

自三国时“龙现武阳赤水”，黄龙溪便与“龙”结下了不解之缘。先民们根据神龙图腾，创作了“火龙灯舞”。每逢辞旧迎新之际，“火龙灯舞”便会在黄龙溪大放异彩。正所谓“岁岁春节烧火龙，烟花遍地乐融融”。“烧火龙”习俗源于东汉，盛于南宋，到元朝广为流行，一直延续至今，是川西坝子最驰名、最具传统特色的民俗活动。每年从正月初二晚上出灯到元宵节收灯，每天都有龙灯、狮灯、牛儿灯、幺妹灯等拜年大游行，整个古镇都笼罩在红灯笼、红对联、红蜡烛的海洋中。正月十五日晚是高潮，爆竹声声、烟花四起，鞭炮声、烟花声、欢叫声响成一片。黄龙溪火龙由简单的竹、木、纸、布编扎彩绘而成。虎眼狮鼻，鹿角鹰爪，蛇身马尾，龙眼和龙身各节内置点燃的蜡烛，整条火龙灯数十米长，舞动起来威风八面，英姿矫健翩然欲飞。在喧腾的锣鼓声中，当真是一片火的海洋、烟的世界、光的幻影。舞龙人尽兴表演，祈求来年风调雨顺，五谷丰登，幸福美满。火龙节期间，还举办烧火龙、彩龙表演、南狮表演、漂河灯、燃放孔明灯、燃放烟花爆竹，焰火晚会等活动，热闹非凡。(https://www.xing528.com)

Fire D ragon Lan te rn Dan ce

The tradition of burning fire dragon in Huanglongxi originated in the Eastern Han Dynasty, flourished in the Southern Song Dynasty, and grew w idely popular in the Yuan Dynasty. Still practiced today, it is the most well-known and most distinct folk activity in western Sichuan. Every year, from the night of the second day to the end of the Lantern Festival（the 15th day） of the first lunar month, there would be various new year parades of dragon lanterns, lion lanterns, ox lanterns and girls’ lanterns. During this period, the entire town would be shrouded in a sea of red lanterns, couplets and candles. The activities would culm inate on the night of the Lantern Festival, w ith a festive m ix of f irecrackers, f ireworks and cheers. The Huanglongxi Fire Dragon, woven and painted, is made of bamboo, wood, paper and cloth. Burning candles would be placed in the eyes and body parts of the dragon. When waved, a f ire dragon lantern, about a dozen meters long, would move majestically and powerfully as if it were f lying.

● 九巷寻踪

旧时黄龙溪航运发达，街道上人流如织，熙熙攘攘，已然容不下太多的小商小贩。当时的管理者便将通往河边本作挑水用的巷子利用起来，指定专巷销售以便管理，慢慢地这些巷子就有了它的名字。

艄公巷：在船只作为主要交通工具的年代，艄公地位很高，人数众多。他们上下船只时，专走此巷。

篙竿巷：供船工们摆放工具的巷子，旧时，船工上岸后，便把篙竿排放在其中。走入巷子，成排的篙竿扑面而来，如同一方篙竿丛林，堪为黄龙溪一大景观。

鱼鳅巷：这是当地人特别爱吃的一种怎么也长不大的小鱼，也叫“猫儿鱼”。靠水吃水的居民为了满足当地人和商客吃鱼的需要，将捕得来的鱼鳅赶早市来此贩卖。

还有扁担巷、烟市巷、担水巷、蓑衣巷、鸡脚巷，顾名思义可知买卖的货物。

那龙爪巷是咋回事？传说古镇的王爷坎是龙头，正街是龙身，下河街是龙尾。这条巷子犹如其爪，故称“龙爪巷”。真是无处不龙！

扁担巷
Carrying Pole Alley

扁担巷
Carrying Pole Alley

黄龙溪
Huang longxi

Historical traces in nine alleys

In the old days, river transportation was well-developed in Huanglongxi, giving rise to brisk trade on streets. Different alleys sold different goods.

Boatman A lley: When the boat was a major means of transportation, boatmen enjoyed a high status, and there were many boatmen. Upon arrivals or before departures, these boatmen would walk through this dedicated alley.

Boat Pole A lley: It was used to store the tools of boat crew. In the old days, after a crew landed, they would put boat poles in this alley. Back then, one would be overwhelmed by the rows of boat poles placed there that looked like a bush of poles. It was once a sight to see in this town.

Loach A lley: Loach, also known as cat’s f ish, is one of the favorite small f ish varieties of locals. Local people relied on the river for a living. To meet the demand for f ish of their own and merchants, locals would sell their loach catch early in the morning.

There are also Carrying Pole A lley, Tobacco A lley, Water Fetching A lley, Raincoat A lley and Chicken Feet A lley. These alley names suggest the goods traded in the old days.

Finally, what is the origin of Dragon Claw A lley? Legend has it that, for Huanglongxi, the Lord Levee is the dragon head, the main street the body, and Xiahe Street the tail. This alley derived its name from the shape of a dragon claw. What a ubiquitous presence the dragon is in the town!

● 黄龙溪号子

“上江口，下江流，黄龙溪转苏码头。中和二场路好走，嗨唷嗨唷，加把油……”

一声声嘹亮的号子，时而悠扬，时而高亢。古朴的调子里蕴藏着翻滚的河水、船工的辛劳。这是流传在成都锦江上的船工号子，属于川江号子的一支，现仅存于黄龙溪，也叫府河号子。黄龙溪一带水势平缓，相对于上水号子，黄龙溪号子属于下水（平水）号子，舒缓婉转。有趣的是，号子里有大量的川剧内容，保留了丰富的民俗传统和地方风情，极富川西色彩。

“江南牡丹朵朵红，二郎灌滩擒孽龙。”（川剧《望娘滩》）

“三人结拜情意重，四海龙王在水中。”（ 川戏《三国刘关张》和《水晶宫》）

“二月里来龙抬头，王宝钏梳妆上彩楼，王孙公子她不中，绣球端打平贵头。”（川剧《回龙阁》）

想当年，船工多为川剧迷，拉船靠岸后，不少人都要跑到剧场或茶馆听川剧消遣，黄龙溪号子由此别具一格，为千年水码头增添了一层浓厚的民间文化色彩。

Huang longx i W o rk Song

“Travel upstream and downstream, shift from Huanglongxi to Su W harf. The journey w ill be smooth by the second section in Zhonghe. Hey-yo, hey-yo, come on. Try harder...”

The sonorous work song is melodious and resounding. It is a boat workers’ chant popular along the Jinjiang River in Chengdu. As a branch of work songs of Sichuan rivers, this work song now only exists in Huanglongxi. It is also known as the Fuhe Work Song. The river in Huanglongxi f lows quietly, so the work song here is downstream（f lat water） as opposite to upstream work song. It features a soothing and m ild melody. Much of the content is from Sichuan Opera, retaining the rich folk customs and local features typical of western Sichuan.

“When peonies blossom in the south of the Yangtze, Erlang would grapple w ith the evil dragon in the rapids.”（Wangniang Rapids, Sichuan opera）

“The trio of Shu made an oath to be sworn brothers. The dragon kings of the four seas rule the waters.”（The Peach Garden Trio and The Crystal Palace, Sichuan opera）

“In the second month of the year when the dragon raises its head, Wang Baochuan dressed up and ascended the decorated tower. Instead of the descendants of princes and nobility, she threw the embroidered ball to Xue Pinggui.”（The Huilong Pavilion, Sichuan opera）

黄龙溪
Huang longxi

府河号子2009年被确认为“四川省非物质文化遗产”

The Fuhe Work Song was recognized as an item of Sichuan Provincial Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2009.

黄龙溪夜色
Night view of Huang longxi

黄龙溪一根面
Huang longxi One Single Noodle

千年水码头古镇黄龙溪
Ancient Town Huang longxi, amillennium w ha rf

●黄龙溪一根面

“不吃一根面，枉到黄龙溪。”黄龙溪的美食以一根面为代表，可又绝不仅限于此。一根面又叫“长寿面”“长久面”，是宋、元、明、清时期黄龙溪古镇著名的传统名小吃。一根面就是“一碗只有一根面，一锅也是一根面。一根面要多长有多长”。下锅时，师傅捏住面的一头远远地抛入锅中，龙飞凤舞甚是好看。滑爽、柔韧、弹牙……一根面吃起来，越嚼越有嚼头，即使不加臊子，味道也是鲜美无比！

古镇最知名的美食还有黄辣丁和焦皮肘子。鹿溪河里的黄辣丁在豆瓣酱、花椒、辣椒的伺候下，原始的美味让人欲罢不能；焦皮肘子软糯浓香，上得国宴，下得民间。古镇基本上完整地保留了传统的川西美食，数不胜数，更难得坚持传统，原汁原味。

Huanglongxi One Single Noodle

There is a saying that, “Without eating the One Single Noodle, one has not really been to Huanglongxi.” One Single Noodle is a representative of delicious food in Huanglongxi, but the town offers more. One Single Noodle, also known as the Longevity Noodle, was a wellknown traditional snack in Huanglongxi back in the Song, Yuan, Ming and Qing Dynasties. As its name suggests, One Single Noodle means a single strip of noodle in a bowl or boiler. This strip of noodle can be as long as necessary. When boiling the noodle, the chef would hold one end of the noodle and throw it into the boiler from a distance, which is a nice sight to see.

Yellow Catfish and Brown Crust Pork Hock are also the signature dishes of the town. Yellow catfish, captured in the Luxi River, cooked with broad bean chili paste, prickly ash and hot pepper, has an original flavor that is mouth-watering. The Brown Crust Pork Hock, soft and aromatic, appeals to both refined and popular tastes. The town has largely retained a full range of traditional western Sichuan delicacies beyond count. More importantly, these dishes have kept the original and traditional flavors.